Starburst Beret: Free Pattern and Video Tutorial
If you follow me on Facebook or Instagram, you have no doubt seen the new stitch pattern and yarn I have been working with. I’ll be completely honest, this is my favorite pattern and I believe it has the potential to my my big design of the year. The idea was inspired from the Jasmine stitch, a unique star stitch hybrid that can be modified with many different stitches to create the starburst pattern. For my crochet beret pattern, I have used double crochet clusters to create the stunnning starburst pattern. Let’s have a close-up look of this gorgeous stitch
When I first began this pattern, the complexity of the starburst pattern made my head hurt but I was determined to come up with an easy way to memorize the starburst pattern. It took a little practice, but I believe I have come up with a way to make this pattern user friendly. I have labeled this pattern “experienced” however, with my video tutorial I believe intermediate level (and just maybe a determined advanced beginner) can successfully create this gorgeous beret.
Let’s talk about yarn for a minute. The gorgeous yarn you see in the images here inspired me to release this pattern as a St. Patrick’s day design. It is a brand called Manos del Uruguay and I can’t even explain how lovely it is to work with. The yarn itself is called Maxima and the colorway shown is called seedling. I purchased my skein at a local yarn store, but you can also purchase it online from various different retailers. If you can get your hands on some, I highly recommend using it for this pattern. However, if you are allergic to wool or are unable to purchase Manos, the pattern is versatile enough for other worsted weight yarns.
Crochet Pattern by B. Hooked Crochet, Copyright 2015.
Please do not copy, sell or redistribute this pattern without first obtaining my permission. Items produced using this pattern may be sold, however please do not use the photo above.
This pattern is written in US crochet terms
Gather your supplies
- 1 skein Manos del Uruguay Maxima or approximately 160 yards worsted weight yarn
- 5 mm Crochet hook
- Darning Needle
Gauge and Sizing
Each individual starburst measures just shy of 1.5″ across. From one center to the adjacent measures 1″.
When laying flat, the beret measures approximately 10″ across (diameter) at the largest point. The stretchy ribbed band allows this hat to fit an individual with a head circumference as small as 21″ and as large as 23″. The sizing of this hat is more suited for a teen or adult.
- Bpdc – Back Post Double Crochet
- Ch – Chain
- Cl – Cluster *See Pattern Notes*
- Dc – Double Crochet
- Fpdc – Front Post Double Crochet
- Fpdc2Tog – Front Post Double Crochet 2 Together
- Sc – Single Crochet
- Scdec – Single Crochet Decrease
- Slst – Slip Stitch
- Sts – Stitches
- RevSc – Reverse Single Crochet
- YO – Yarn Over
*Cl (cluster stitch) – YO and insert hook into designated stitch, YO and draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 (two loops on hook). YO, insert hook into the same stitch, YO and draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 (three loops on hook). YO, insert hook into the same stitch, YO and draw up a loop. YO and pull through 2 (four loops on hook). YO and pull through all four loops. Chain one to finish the stitch.
You may substitute any worsted weight yarn for this pattern. In the video tutorial, I am demonstrating with Caron Simply Soft, Pistachio and it works up beautifully.
This crochet beret pattern is worked in the round starting with the starburst pattern. Please refer to the video tutorial for the best description of how to work this portion of the pattern. You may also refer to the diagram below which depicts the pattern to round 2. The pattern you see for round 2 is the also the pattern repeat for rounds 3 and 4.
This pattern recommends that you begin working in the round using the alternate magic ring method but you may also use the magic ring if you are comfortable doing so. For a more detailed demonstration on how to start using the alternate magic ring method. For a more detailed demonstration on how to start using the magic ring.
Once you have completed the starburst pattern, it’s smooth sailing from there. Don’t give up if your starburst pattern doesn’t look perfect at first. It took me quite a bit of practice to get my gauge just right. That brings up our next point, gauge. Your gauge will determine the overall size of the beret. If your gauge is smaller than mine, your hat will be smaller than the measurements listed above. Similarly, if your gauge is bigger than mine, your hat will be larger than the measurements listed.
This video is also available in a left handed version. Click here to be directed to the left handed tutorial on YouTube.
Round 1: Chain 3 and join with a slst to the first chain to form a ring. Ch 3 and create a Cl stitch. *Ch 3 and create a Cl in the chain one from the previous cluster, (do not chain 1 to finish the cluster, hold all loops on your hook). Create a Cl in the center of the ring and finish both clusters by chaining 1. Repeat from * 4 more times. You should have 6 clusters coming from the center of the ring. Join with a slst to the chain 1 from the first Cl.
Rounds 2-4: Ch 3 and create a Cl stitch. *Ch 3 and create a Cl in the chain one from the previous cluster, (do not chain 1 to finish the cl, hold all loops on your hook). Create a Cl in the center of same starburst and finish both clusters by chaining 1. Ch 3 and create a Cl in the chain one from the previous cluster, (do not chain 1 to finish the cl, hold all loops on your hook). Create a Cl in the center of the same starburst (do not chain 1 to finish the cl, hold all loops on your hook) and create a cl in the center of the next starburst and finish all 3 clusters by chaining 1.
Round 5: Ch 1 and Sc once around each ch 3, each cl stitch and each starburst center. Join with a slst to the chain 1. (135 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1 (counts as stitch) and Sc into the next 6 stitches. ScDec over the next 2 sts. *Sc in the next 7 sts and ScDec over the next two. Join with a slst to the chain 1. (120 sts)
Round 7: Ch 3. Dc once into every stitch and join with a slst to the third chain. (120 sts)
Round 8: Ch 2. Fpdc around first stitch, Bpdc around second stitch. *Fpdc around the next stitch and Bpdc around the next stitch. Repeat from * around and join with a slst to the second chain. (120 sts)
Round 9: Ch 2. Fpdc2Tog (the first post, skip the bpdc and the next fpdc). Bpdc into the next bpdc. *Fpdc2Tog (the next post, skip the bpdc and the next fpdc. Bpdc into the next bpdc. Repeat from * and join with a slst to the second chain. (60 sts)
Rounds 10-15: Ch 2. Fpdc around first stitch, Bpdc around second stitch. *Fpdc around the next stitch and Bpdc around the next stitch. Repeat from * around and join with a slst to the second chain. (60 sts)
Round 16: Ch 1. Sc once into every stitch and join with a slst to the chain 1. (60 sts)
Round 17: Ch 1. Rev Sc once into every stitch and join with a slst to the chain 1. (60 sts)
Bind off and weave in your ends.
I highly recommend blocking your hat over a dinner plate once you are finished crocheting. Not only will it make the rounded edge lay much nicer, but it will also correct minor (small) gauging issues. Here is an example of what my hat looked like before blocking:
and here is an example of what the same hat looked like after blocking:
It’s quite obvious that blocking is necessary for this pattern! Once you have stretched your hat over a plate, make sure that it is centered by looking at the pattern on the front. Saturate the hat with tap water and allow 24 hours to dry.